kek lok si

so much for the walk up kek lok si that fills my memories with so much charm and delight. today the stalls are shuttered and the way is barred. another pandemic victim apparently.

 

air itam

lovely street-side breakfast.

but you need to cognitively shut down to enjoy the food here. because raw and cooked and safe temperatures and public health are middle-class western imports.

 

pearl of the orient

been twenty-five years since our last visit, we think. plus ca change etc.

• penang hill, in the distance, looks the same. benignantly maternal and immanent
• the old zinc roofs and shophouses continue uncensored and firmly in the last two centuries
• although the mid-century-style chinese schools now sport LED welcome billboards
• georgetown gentrification looks shabby chic by now. they need a new wave soon
• our palate is no longer as intrepid as it was. or perhaps our eyes miss less

but penang remains a magical place to visit, i tell HOM:

• the people are friendly and unassuming and speak the dialect of my childhood
• the place is messy the traffic is 'orrible but it all works anyway
• there are surprisingly few smokers out loose
• the food is good and the exchange rate is favorable
• the peranakan museum was gorgeous. with english-speaking guides! yesss