my first finish of the year, and what a delicious one too!
what ruth reichl does for french american food fuchsia dunlop does for chinese cuisine: i.e. describe it so lyrically that you want to go eat it yourself for dinner tonight.
this is an ambitioulsy sweeping review of the varied traditions that make up chinese cuisine and it certainly succeeds in introducing a most interesting landscape to a cultural semi-ignoramus (me). the semi bit is entranced by the connections between what she says and the little i know by experience. the ignoramus part is enlightened by explications of what i do not know i do not know, like the foundational impact of rice and pork on the ethnic psyche.
and of course, the overseas chinese part is delighted that she mentions singaporean and malaysian chinese contributions as well.
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